China has emerged as the world's largest producer of foie gras, the French delicacy long synonymous with animal cruelty.
Reuters reported Friday that China's foie gras output has grown rapidly in recent years and could surpass France this year to claim the top spot globally.
Citing industry analysts, Reuters said China produced about 14,000 metric tons of foie gras last year, a 30 percent increase from the previous year and roughly seven times the approximately 2,000 metric tons it produced a decade ago.
Once considered a luxury ingredient in China, foie gras — made from the liver of a duck or goose — has gone mainstream, now appearing in fried rice and hot pot dishes.
A slice of foie gras at a Chinese restaurant sells for 30 to 70 yuan (about $10), far below the 15 to 40 euros (about $46) charged per serving at French restaurants.
France, the longtime global leader, saw its output fall 3 percent last year to 15,044 metric tons. Together, France and China account for more than 80 percent of global foie gras production, according to Reuters.
Government subsidies have also fueled China's production expansion. An official at Chinese foie gras producer Changhao Biotechnology said state support covers more than half of the company's infrastructure investment and vaccine costs.
The official added that the growing size of Chinese goose livers is another key driver of rising output. Goose livers produced by the company weigh at least 1 kilogram each, compared with the 500 to 550 grams typical of duck livers in France and the roughly 750 grams or less common for French goose livers, Reuters noted.
Foie gras has long drawn criticism over the inhumane methods used to produce it. Some producers force-feed geese by inserting a tube into their esophagus and pumping in grain feed to enlarge and fatten the liver.
Food safety concerns add another layer of caution around Chinese foie gras. Exports currently account for less than 5 percent of China's total output, in part because Chinese customs authorities impose strict quarantine standards — including a requirement that producers demonstrate the absence of around 300 chemicals in poultry following vaccination.
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