'No more Chinese kimchi': Formaldehyde cabbage scare rattles restaurant industry

Consumer anxiety over Chinese kimchi is mounting again after reports emerged that cabbage growers in China had used formaldehyde — a known carcinogen — to keep the vegetable fresh during transport. The concern is particularly acute in South Korea's restaurant industry, which relies heavily on imported kimchi that is almost entirely sourced from China.

Chinese kimchi imports totaled 220,701 metric tons in the first eight months of this year, up 2.0 percent from the same period last year, according to Korea Customs Service trade statistics. That figure is the highest ever recorded for the January-to-August period. China accounted for more than 99.9 percent of all kimchi imports.

Chinese kimchi imports have grown steadily for years. Last year's total reached 336,221 metric tons, a record annual high — up 39.7 percent from 240,606 metric tons in 2021. Imports this year are on track to set yet another record.

Restaurants are the primary buyers of imported kimchi. Among 1,077 restaurants that use napa cabbage kimchi as banchan, 44.1 percent purchased imported kimchi, according to the Korea Rural Economic Institute's 2025 Kimchi Industry Survey. Another 30.3 percent made their own kimchi, while 20.0 percent bought domestically produced commercial kimchi. For kimchi used in cooking rather than as a side dish, the share of restaurants buying imported product exceeded half, at 53.8 percent.

Price is the main reason restaurants turn to imported kimchi. Among 656 restaurants that buy imported kimchi, 49.0 percent cited lower prices, while 20.3 percent said they preferred the price stability. With food and labor costs already elevated, switching from cheaper Chinese kimchi to domestic alternatives is not a straightforward decision for most operators.

Against that backdrop, a recent controversy in China over so-called "formaldehyde cabbage" has reignited safety concerns about Chinese food ingredients. In late August, some cabbage dealers in Hebei Province were found to have soaked cabbage in formaldehyde solution to extend its freshness during long-distance transport, causing widespread alarm.

Formaldehyde is classified as a Group 1 carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer, a body under the World Health Organization, and is used in disinfection and biological tissue preservation. The Ministry of Food and Drug Safety said it confirmed through the South Korean Embassy in Beijing that no cabbage treated with formaldehyde had entered the country.

The controversy widened when reports surfaced that bamboo shoots in some parts of China had been fumigated with sulfur during processing. The ministry said fresh Chinese bamboo shoots have not been imported into South Korea as an agricultural product. However, some processed bamboo shoot products — such as canned goods — are imported, and the ministry said it would add manufacturer-specific inspections for a set period on top of existing sulfur dioxide checks at customs.

No problems have been confirmed in products currently circulating in the domestic market, but the string of food safety controversies in China is itself a source of unease for the restaurant industry. "With ingredient costs already high, Chinese kimchi is significantly cheaper than domestic kimchi, so it's hard to switch easily," one industry official said. "But with consumers growing more sensitive about country of origin amid recent hygiene controversies, the industry is keeping a close eye on the situation."