LIFE·CULTURE

'Layeon' chef Cha Do-young: 'Hansik needs ramyun and tteokbokki to go global' [Travel ON]

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Published : Sept. 14, 2026 - 11:25:20
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Street food must grow alongside fine dining for hansik to reach the world

'Food tourism' makes gastronomy the destination, not just a stop along the way

Authenticity must be preserved, but service needs to catch up

Cha Do-young, head chef of Layeon at Hotel Shilla [Kim Myung-sang]
Cha Do-young, head chef of Layeon at Hotel Shilla [Kim Myung-sang]

"For hansik to firmly establish itself as a mainstream force in the global fine-dining market, high-end fine dining and accessible street food must expand together as two wings."

Cha Do-young, head chef of Layeon, the Korean restaurant at Hotel Shilla, made the remarks Tuesday at the 2027 Global Fine Dining Awards, hosted by Trip.com at Resorts World Sentosa in Singapore. Cha said the success or failure of hansik's globalization hinges on whether it remains the preserve of a select few or broadens its popular base.

"Japanese cuisine quickly became a global mainstream in part because fine dining spread alongside everyday, accessible dishes — sushi, udon, tonkatsu, ramen," Cha said. "If hansik similarly grows its popular offerings — bibimbap, bulgogi, K-chicken, tteokbokki, ramyun — alongside fine dining, it can firmly anchor itself as one of the pillars of world gastronomy."

Cha Do-young, head chef of Layeon at Hotel Shilla [Kim Myung-sang]
Cha Do-young, head chef of Layeon at Hotel Shilla [Kim Myung-sang]

Cha identified "authenticity-based modern service" as the key to drawing foreign visitors to Korea. As food tourism — where the culinary experience itself becomes the purpose of travel, not merely a sightseeing add-on — continues to spread, he said restaurants must preserve the essence of their ingredients and cooking methods while refining the service and details that shape the overall dining experience.

"In the traditional Korean table setting, all dishes arrive at once and cool quickly, so we shifted to a sequential course format," Cha said. "We focus on managing the flow and temperature so that customers can enjoy the meal comfortably, while keeping the roots of tradition intact."

Foreign visitors have shown a clear preference for menus rooted in authentic food culture over fusion adaptations. In response, Layeon runs a monthly class in which the chef personally demonstrates the history and preparation of gujeolpan — a traditional nine-sectioned dish — and invites foreign guests to try making it themselves.

Global platforms are also proving effective at drawing overseas visitors to Korea. As culinary guides such as the Michelin Guide and TripGourmet serve as key gateways for international travelers, Layeon has seen a growing share of reservations from Chinese-speaking markets — including China, Taiwan and Singapore — through platforms such as Trip.com.

"When we convey our unique food culture in a systematic way, hansik can transcend a passing trend and settle in as its own distinct culinary genre," Cha said. "I want to help elevate hansik's standing in the global market by carrying our ancestors' food culture forward in a modern way."


terry@heraldcorp.com
This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.

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