Why you should buy male blue crabs this fall

"Don't pick the roe-filled female crab?"

When choosing crabs, most people instinctively reach for female blue crabs packed with bright orange roe. But in autumn, the male blue crab may actually be the better buy. The sweet, firm flesh of a fall male crab offers a different kind of pleasure for crab lovers.

Male blue crabs spend the summer feeding and building mass, so by fall their meat has filled out and their flesh has firmed up. Unlike females that have just come through spawning season, males are at their best for savoring the pure flavor of the crab meat itself.

The male crab's appeal lies in its meat. A well-filled specimen has a firm texture with a pronounced sweetness and umami. The female crab's draw is the rich, nutty flavor of its roe and innards; the male wins on the strength of its clean, densely packed flesh.

The window for fall male crabs is well defined. Blue crabs along the West Sea coast generally observe a fishing ban from June 21 to Aug. 20 before the autumn season begins. Late August through November is the prime period to enjoy fall blue crabs. However, water temperature, catch volumes and local fishing conditions can affect supply and price at market.

When selecting a good blue crab, weight matters as much as size. Among crabs of similar dimensions, one that feels heavy in the hand is more likely to be full of meat. It is also worth checking that the shell is hard and that the legs are intact and springy. Sex can be determined by the shape of the apron — the flap on the underside of the crab. A male's apron is narrow and roughly triangular, while a female's is wide and rounded. Note that the apron shape identifies sex only; it is not a guarantee of how much meat the crab contains.

Steaming is the best way to cook male blue crabs if you want to taste the meat at its purest. Adding one to a doenjang jjigae — Korean fermented soybean paste stew — lends the broth a natural sweetness and umami from the flesh without much additional seafood stock. Male blue crab also makes an excellent risotto: cook the rice in crab broth, then stir in butter and cheese for a dish that is rich and nutty all at once.