'King of Riesling' Ernst Loosen visits Seoul — and his wines deliver

"One of the keys to making a great sparkling wine is acidity. We have Riesling — an aromatic variety with naturally high acidity."

Ernst Loosen, owner of the German winery Dr. Loosen, visited South Korea for the first time in a decade. The occasion was a media event held May 28 at Le Monde du Vin in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. Dr. Loosen is one of Germany's most celebrated Riesling estates, with a history spanning 200 years.

The event was organized by spirits and wine importer Ahyoung FBC against a backdrop of growing consumer interest in white wine. South Korea's wine market has long been dominated by full-bodied reds, but demand has been shifting toward white wines prized for their acidity, minerality and lower alcohol content. Riesling, Loosen said, is a variety well suited to illustrate that trend.

Riesling is a white grape variety that developed along Germany's Rhine River, particularly in the Mosel region, and is considered one of the world's three great white varieties alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

"The conditions for a great Riesling winery are a south-facing slope to catch the sun and a steep incline to keep things cool," Loosen said. "The steepest vineyards in the world are in the Mosel, at a 30-degree gradient." He added that while most vines are grafted, the slate soils of the Mosel drain so well that phylloxera — the vine pest — struggles to survive there, allowing Dr. Loosen to cultivate ungrafted vines for the past century. Because of this, the winery labels its wines by soil type and grape variety rather than individual vineyard name.

During fermentation, no additives are used and the estate adheres to traditional oak-barrel aging. "The oak barrel itself breathes very slightly as it oxidizes, which gives the wine a far more harmonious complexity," Loosen said.

Loosen also touched on Germany's long sparkling wine tradition. "Germans love sparkling wine," he said. "Around 4 or 5 in the afternoon, you can easily spot women enjoying a glass." He added that sparkling wine made from 100 percent Riesling has a distinctly different flavor profile.

Six wines were poured at the tasting, and even within a single variety the differences in soil came through clearly. The Blue Slate Riesling Dry showed vivid acidity and pronounced minerality, while the Red Slate Riesling Dry 2024 offered a more powerful, structured character. "Both the Blue and Red Slate can age for a long time," Loosen said, "and even with age they retain a fresh, vibrant quality."

The food pairings leaned into classic white-wine territory — fish and potatoes. Dishes included spot prawns, bluefin tuna, cod and red potatoes. The Riesling Sparkling Dry showed a clean, crisp profile that paired well with brioche. The tasting also featured the Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Dry Alte Reben GG 2022, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Dry Im Reichen GGR 2018 and the Erdener Prälat Riesling Dry GG Reserve 2017.

Riesling's high acidity makes it a strong pairing partner for spicy dishes, rich fatty foods and fermented preparations. Germany's own fermented staple, sauerkraut, is widely regarded as a natural match for the variety's sharp, clean acidity.

Loosen is known in the wine world as the "King of Riesling" — a title earned through decades of work and consistent recognition from global critics. Decanter magazine inducted him into its Hall of Fame in 2005, and he has also appeared on Wine & Spirits magazine's list of the 50 most influential winemakers in the world.