The blue crab, an invasive species that has long tormented Italian fishermen, is being transformed into a lucrative export commodity. What was once caught and incinerated en masse is now being sold on overseas markets, opening the door to hundreds of millions of won in annual revenue.
The Polesine fishermen's cooperative in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy expects to generate up to 20 million euros ($23.2 million) in blue crab sales this year, according to the Associated Press on Wednesday (local time). The turnaround is a striking reversal for a region that once declared a state of emergency over the species.
Native to the Atlantic coast of North America, the blue crab has rapidly expanded its presence in the Mediterranean in recent years. Researchers attribute the spread to rising water temperatures driven by climate change and increased salinity in the Po River delta — a result of reduced freshwater inflow caused by drought — conditions that favor the crab's reproduction.
The population surged dramatically around 2023, devastating not only native crab species but also the clam-farming industry that forms a major source of income for fishermen in the Po delta. Blue crabs tore through aquaculture beds indiscriminately, shaking the very foundation of the local fishing economy.
Early efforts focused on eradication. Fishermen burned their catches in bulk, and authorities even released tens of thousands of octopuses — a natural predator of the blue crab — into local waters. But the crab's prolific breeding proved impossible to keep up with. The AP reported that the practice of incinerating blue crab catches continued for about two years.
The problem was compounded by a lack of domestic demand. While blue crab is a popular ingredient in the United States and elsewhere, it was unfamiliar to Italian consumers, cumbersome to prepare, and burdened by a negative image as the creature that had destroyed the local clam industry.
A local campaign promoting the idea of "if you can't beat them, eat them" was launched to encourage consumption, but the response was limited.
As losses mounted, the cooperative's annual sales fell to around 15 million euros at one point, and its membership shrank from a peak of 1,500 to 850. The collapse of the clam sector, which had accounted for a significant share of the cooperative's revenue, was largely to blame.
Ultimately, the fishermen shifted strategy — from trying to eliminate the blue crab to selling it. If Italian consumers would not embrace it, they reasoned, the answer was to find overseas markets that already had an appetite for it.
Blue crab currently trades at about 1.3 euros per kilogram. Each morning, local fishermen sort through their catches, then process and export them.
Sri Lanka has become the primary destination. Crabs are cooked and shipped frozen, where workers hand-pick the meat and process it into a finished product. The crabmeat is then sold into international markets, including Europe, and some finds its way back to Italy.
Paolo Mancin, president of the Polesine fishermen's cooperative, told the AP he hopes the crabmeat returning from Sri Lanka "will help open the minds of Italian consumers, who have so far been cold to the campaigns."
Blue crab exports are providing fishermen with a new source of income after years of losses to the invasive species, but commercialization alone will not resolve the underlying ecological problem. Experiments to control the population — including the release of octopuses — are continuing in Italy. The effort to reframe the blue crab from an unwanted invader into a marketable seafood product will need to go hand in hand with long-term population management to protect native ecosystems and clam farms.
rainbow@heraldcorp.com